What About Sue and George

Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Provence, France

With US friends, Lisa and Larry, visiting us this past week our travels took us to the South of France. Provence to be exact.

I have come to realize that Provence is a vast landscape. It is understandable why people return to this area again and again with the never ending sunshine, the quaint villages, the big blue waters of the Mediterranean with its spectacular rock formations plunging into the sea, fabulous beaches, and amazing art museums. For a late October visit, we were pleasantly surprised by the mild, warm weather.

With so much to see and do, it is a challenge deciding where to begin exploring, but our friends didn't, they chose Gorges du Verdon for our first adventure. Gorges du Verdon is the largest canyon in Europe, second only in the world to, you guessed it, America's Grand Canyon.

But before getting to the Gorges, we were drawn to a hillside medieval village and castle. Not finding this village in our tour books, made it all the more mysterious and interesting, we had to take a look. A small parking lot on the village edge, suggested that visitors walk the village. Trigance, a tiny hamlet built around the 11th century furnished magnificent view into the valley below, especially from the castle, turned hotel, perched high atop, overlooking the village. It had a charm all its own with friendly neighborhood dogs and cats roaming the narrow stone streets, old stone homes and walls, and a path that crisscrossed to the castle above.

Trigance, France

Trigance, France - castle steps

Trigance, France - entrance to the castle

Trigance, France - Castle dining room

Getting to the Gorges du Verdon is a fusion of switchbacks, hairpin turns, oncoming traffic occasionally on our side of the road, and did I say curvy roads, along with breathtaking scenery.

With our first sight of the Gorges we were struck by the emerald green stream which stands out against the barren, rocky landscape of the Gorges. Both narrow and deep (2300 feet at its deepest) it is a rock climbers paradise no doubt. Hiking, bungee jumping, rafting, and canyoning are also popular activities. The stream eventually spills into the man made, Sainte-Croix Lake.

Gorges du Verdon, France

Exiting the western end of the canyon we came upon another quaint village, Aiguines. Along with a 17th century Renaissance-style castle, there were many artists workshops and an abundance of gift shops too. Clean, friendly, and with views of the emerald colored Sainte-Croix Lake, it was a pleasant stop.

Aiguines, France - Sainte-Croix Lake in the background

Aiguines, France

The following day, Nice was our destination, but like so many times before in our travels, getting sidetracked by things we observe along the way is common, and this day was no different. Sometimes it's best not to listen to the GPS and just follow your nose. And we're thankful we did because the drive along the French Riviera from Saint Raphael to Nice was a stunner.

French Riviera, France

Cannes, France

The Marc Chagall Museum located in Nice, is dedicated to this famous Russian artist and I was glad Lisa suggested going there. I first came to know this artist by his stain-glass works several years ago, but I believe he is more well known for his paintings. Just 70 minutes from our home we can visit a work by Chagall at the Metz Cathedral. You can also find his work on the ceiling of the Paris Opera.

Metz Cathedral - Marc Chagall stain-glass

What surprised me the most about Nice, is the beach. It is covered by smooth stones, there is no sand. I don't know how this came to be, but it could be, not so comfy for sunbathing.

Nice, France

The architecture in Nice is quite exceptional and you can frequently see Italian influences. We walked the old town which I always love to do. It is a maze of narrow streets where you will find the locals relaxing in little outdoor cafes, laundry flapping in the sea breeze and many vendors selling their wares.

Nice, France

Nice, France - old town

Nice, France - Place Masenna

Nice, France - Notre Dame

For our last day in Provence, we decided to visit the adorable town of Tourrettes-sur-Loup, also known as the City of Violets. Violets are a big business here with many sent to Grasse (the perfume capital), made into candy, and the cause for a celebration each March. There's even a Violet Museum with greenhouses adjoining the museum.

Not only are violets popular here, but nearly 30 artisans studios exist that include jewelry, pottery, original clothing, woodworkers, painters, sculptors, and fabric designers. At dusk, men and women were playing petanque (boules) in the town square, a nice way to end a day. I just loved this town and couldn't stop taking photographs. It is the quintessential Provence, everything you could imagine Provence to be, rolled into one.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France

Just down the road from Tourrettes-sur-Loup is the Confiserie Florian where a multitude of marmalade, chocolates, soft and hard candies, and sugar-permeated fruits are made. The most unusual products sold here are the sugar coated rose petals, verbena leaves, and violets. We took the guided tour and discovered that much of the process was all done by hand. Individuals laying each rose petal, each verbena leaf on a tray and covering it with sugar, wow, a very labor intensive process resulting in a very expensive product.

Coating verbena leaves

We parted ways with our friends in Provence and rejoined them in Paris for several days visiting the Louvre, Montmarte, Avenue des Champs-Elysees, and riding the tour bus.

Here's some more photos at this link:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjLBx68L

Monday, September 23, 2013

A walk in the country

This past Sunday we were invited to go for a walk in the country. Not exactly a hike we were told by Michele and Roland, but a stroll through the countryside with a few of their friends; Jean-Luc, Petra, Patrice, Martine, Agnes, Jean-Rene, Charlie, Rene, and Monique. That is fine by George and I, we are always game for doing different things and exploring. But I have to say we got more than we bargained for yesterday. It was truly a fascinating walk.

It was suggested to wear something bright since hunting season just started. So, what is in season? Wild boar, deer, rabbits, really anything that moves it sounded like. Not more than 10 minutes into our walk we heard BANG, BANG. I felt a little better realizing the guns were shotguns, not rifles, the shots were a good distance away.

And so our walk continued, but no less than five minutes after Michele said, "we could see a wild boar today"...Holy Moses, a boar ran across the field we were walking. Wow, they're fast and very powerful looking, or perhaps just scared because the ammunition was flying. We counted our lucky stars that Mr. Boar didn't run in our direction, because we have been told - you don't want to come face to face with a boar.

Evidence of wild boar searching for food, they
make quite a mess in the forest and fields

Well that was enough excitement for one day, but there's more.

To our incredible surprise our walk took us past a hermit's home built into solid rock, dating to the 11th century. I don't know much about this site other than the hermit was religious based. It is amazing what you can discover in unexpected places.

Hermit's home

A trough to gather water. There was a hole about 5 inches from the bottom
of the square hole in the rock to allow water to flow to a lower reservoir.

A walk in the French countryside wouldn't be complete without passing a castle. And sure enough we did, but this is not common in our area. The property included several horses and a large pond - Absolutely beautiful!

Castle front gate - we knocked, but no one was home

Picnicking midway:

American Douglas Fir (non-native to France) planted 70-80 years ago.
It's helpful when a forester is along on the walk. We have also seen Sequoia
trees in our travels in France, which are also, non-native.

Hmmmm, which way should we go?

A future moth.

The cows were skillfully called to the edge of the fence by Patrice, in French of course.

What is profound to us is the small, so very small world we live in. Through conversation with Petra, we came to learn that she has a friend living in the Harrisburg, Pennsylvania area, which happens to be my hometown area.

George and I enjoyed the day immensely, but especially the fellowship and laughter throughout the day.

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Annecy, France

A little get away took us to Annecy this past weekend. As we were returning to France in July we overhead a Frenchman tell his seat partner that Annecy was beautiful, an excellent place to visit.

I try to make a mental note when I hear a native praise a particular location, because who knows better than locals, what to see and where to go. And this one stuck because Annecy, located at the foot of the Alps, is an area George and I have visited several times, but never in the summer. And seeing how summer is not quitting here...yet, we decided to take advantage of the fabulous weather.

Lake Annecy

The backdrop of Annecy has something for everyone, its environment inspires countless outdoor activities, if you can imagine it, anything is possible. The lake is surrounded by lush wooded mountains with rocky outcroppings. Protection efforts over the past 50 years have bestowed the status of Lake Annecy, the cleanest lake in Europe, an accolade the citizens of Annecy should be very proud of, for it is super clean and so clear. Annecy was also a candidate for the 2018 winter Olympics, awarded to South Korea in 2011.

Once a railroad bed, now a bike path that wraps around most of the lake, it offers over 25 miles (40km) of dedicated paths. We took advantage of this shoreline hugging path that winds its way through residential areas, tunnels, beside marinas and campgrounds.

Annecy bike path

Views from the bike path, the castle like structure
in the village background is Chateau de Duingt

What was most fascinating to us were the hundreds of colorful paragliders in the sky floating above the picture-perfect landscape of mountains and crystal clear waters. We took the opportunity to visit the launch area, Col de la Forclaz (alt 3772 ft, 1150m), where the brave at heart took off for the skies with a nylon canopy attached to a harness. It looked fairly easy, but without a doubt looks are deceiving. They are pilots, after all, with most securing successful take-offs, however a few had to stop before the point of no return, making adjustments, and trying again. But once in the sky, in all honesty, the ride looks exhilarating. After reading more about this sport, I've come to learn that France has the most paragliding sites of any in the world, Annecy being one of the top!

Col de la Forclaz launch area

Imagine the sound of an alpine cow bell. I've heard them before, what a pleasant sound. The local farmer was rounding up the cows for the night milking and we hurried up to catch a glimpse before they were out of sight...but not out of hearing distance.

The old town area of Annecy could not be more charming. Coined "Venice of the Alps" because of the turquoise canals flowing through the center city. Narrow cobble stoned streets stretch back and forth across the canals with colonnaded passageways along many restaurants and shops to explore. An abundance of flowers line the railing and window boxes of the homes and businesses in the city.

Old town Annecy

On Sunday mornings there is an open market selling regional cheeses, meats and sausages, bread (of course), cooked foods, and produce along with the usual leather goods and clothing, etc. The vast majority of the vendors are sophisticated with decorative displays, refrigerated cases, and credit card capabilities.

Market day in Annecy

However, I noticed this little old lady selling her wares with an old time scale, the kind we see at flea markets with measuring weights on the opposite side of the produce. Nothing was sophisticated at her stand, you can even see what she is sitting on. It reminded me of markets of by gone days. She was doing a brisk business.

Market day in Annecy

Annecy's beginning pre-dates the birth of Jesus Christ by several thousand years, but it wasn't until around 1100 that fortifications were built along with the castle known today as Chateau D'Annecy that rises dramatically above the old town. The Chateau is owned by the city and houses a museum with a wide range of exhibitions encompassing contemporary, cultural, and historical.

Chateau D'Annecy

Numerous castles sit adjacent to the lake. We visited the the Menthon-Saint-Bernard Castle built between the 12th and 19th centuries. It has been inhabited by the same family since the 12th century. It was the inspiration for Sleep Beauty's castle after a visit by none other than Walt Disney on vacation. It is also the namesake of the breed of dogs, the Saint Bernard.

Menthon-Saint-Bernard Castle

Just a short drive from Annecy we visited Les Gorges du Fier. Sculpted by the erosion of the River Fier, a suspended walkway sits a frightening 82 feet above the narrow gorge of rushing water. During times of flooding the walkway can become submerged and above.

Les Gorges du Fier

Here is more photos of our weekend.

http://flic.kr/ps/285kjt