Grand Canyon, Arizona

Our national parks are the jewels of the United States. We all own a piece of these magnificent wildernesses to go and observe, walk, stay, photograph, make memories, contemplate, and lose ourselves in the great outdoors. With little acceptation, the Grand Daddy of all the parks, the Grand Canyon National Park, provides breathtaking views, geological wonders, extraordinary experiences, and a rich history of indigenous cultures. That is why people from every corner of the earth pay visit to this park 365 days of the year.

But first let's begin our trip in Phoenix. We arrived from 10 degree snowy weather in our beloved Cleveland, to 60 degree, sunny skies in the state capital of Arizona, wahooo, I could get use to this. Old Scottsdale was our base, where you will find many restaurants, shops, and art galleries, within easy walking distance, and to museums, just a short drive by car. I was surprised by the canal system that exists in Phoenix. I believe it is used strictly for irrigation and drinking, the low hanging bridges would not allow boats to travel for any significant distance.

I have visited Arizona many times but I have to admit that I didn't know much of its history. The AZ Heritage Center at Papago Park provides a look back in time to native indian cultures, water preservation, mining, UFO sitings, and the Japanese encampments during WWII.

Situated astonishingly close to the airport is the Pueblo Grande Museum and Archaeological Park. This prehistoric site offers remains of Hohokam people's dwellings, ball court, and artifacts found during archaeological endeavors. They were the first people of the Phoenix area to build intricate canals for desert farming and are believed to have occupied this area from approximately AD 1 to 1450.

Phoenix, AZ - Pueblo Grand Archaeological Park

From Phoenix to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon would not be complete without a short diversion off I-17 to Sedona.

Sedona, AZ - Arriving at sundown 

Sedona, AZ - View from our hotel, looking northwest 

Sedona, AZ - out hiking, view looking south

Sedona, AZ - hiking

Oh to be a bird and have the capacity to fly over this incredible scenery. The vermillion-colored landscape of buttes, spires, and domes changes from sunrise to sundown. One of the natural attractions of Sedona are the Vortexes, which are believed to be energy sites that enhance meditation, healing, and creativity. A Vortex is not one particular site, but a general area of enhanced energy. It is easy to find trees with twisted trunks evidence of the energy flow. Whether you believe in the vortex or not, it is a phenomenon that has taken hold. Personally, I did not feel any connection to the vortex, however in a prior visit to Sedona, we have observed people sitting on a blanket, in the middle of nowhere in a meditative state. It is a personal experience that is difficult to describe.

But if the Vortex is not your thing, there are numerous other things to do: hike (100+ trails), bike, take a helicopter, ballon, or jeep ride, rock climb, and enjoy the art culture to name just a few. One of the "not to miss", things to do is watch the sunset and the dramatic color changes to the red rocks surrounding the landscape. Spectacular!!!

Sedona, AZ

The pinnacle of this trip was to hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and stay overnight at Phantom Ranch with our friends Beth and Dave. In 2011 we hiked, stayed overnight, and loved it so much we wanted to do it again. If you think Sedona is beautiful beyond measure, there really are no words to describe the Grand Canyon. And few, if any, photographs can truly capture the enormity or vastness of space that you will witness.

South Rim Grand Canyon, Arizona.  Almost positive that the zig zag trail you see in the lower right of this photo is an up close photo below. It is a steep part of the trail, mules rested several times before continuing.

Grand Canyon AZ - mule train 

Theodore Roosevelt known as the "conservationist president" declared the Grand Canyon a National Monument in 1908 and eight years later was named a National Park by act of Congress.

"Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is. Do nothing to mar its grandeur, sublimity, and loveliness. You cannot improve on it. But what you can do is to keep it for your children, your children's children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American should see."  - Theodore Roosevelt

The Canyon, at 277 miles in length, 18 miles wide, and a mile deep, tells the dramatic erosion of water's artistic prowess with remarkable colors of rock at each sequential level of the canyon. It is difficult to fathom that the basement of time boasts rock that is two billion years old.

The descending hike to Phanton Ranch by way of South Kaibab Trail and the return by Bright Angel Trail (approximately 7.5 miles and 10.5 miles respectively) is the recommended route by foot. Commonly passing you on both trails are mule trains transporting people, food, supplies, and mail to Phantom Ranch and returning to the South Rim. Nothing motorized is used in this transfer of necessities.

Phantom Ranch - pouch for outgoing mail to the rim.

We were astonished by trail runners who, yes, run the trails for an athletic challenge. A fellow on the bus to the South Kaibab Trailhead told us he was running down and up that trail the same day. We passed him later in morning walking at this point, the beauty can stop you in your tracks. He reached the river in 1.5 hours, camera in hand no less.

On our prior trip to Phantom Ranch we stayed in the dorms which house about 10 people in each, one for boys and one for girls. This time we decided to splurge a bit and rented a four person cabin. It was the cutest little accommodation, just perfect.

Phantom Ranch - Cabin #11, our accommodations.

Phantom Ranch - Our cabin, what you see is basically what you get, with a separate tiny toilet room.

It was in 1907 that the first tented community was developed on what is now known as Phantom Ranch. Soon after the National Park designation, the transformation began by the hiring of Mary Colter, the architect of the Phantom Ranch. Once called the "Roosevelt Chalet" the name Phantom Ranch was proposed by her that offered a more romantic, mysterious aspect and was inspired by the small canyon just north, of the same name.

There was once an orchard, a pool, and in 1930's a telephone line was installed for use by guests. The first bridge over the Colorado was built in 1921, before that, people, mules, and supplies were carried by a suspended cable car.

There is a calming isolation about the Ranch that is unmatched to anywhere else I have been. There is no wifi for visitors, no TV, and only a pay telephone for guests, you are truly unplugged. There is a posting of the days/weeks weather in the Canteen which is the only thing that is really important to your connection to the outside world.

The canteen is the central hub of Phantom Ranch. Accommodations check-in for both campers and cabins/dorms, dining, drinking, buying souvenirs, and postal service, all are handled by usually one person. Notice is given by the ring of the dinner bell of your prearranged dinner/breakfast time and you better get there fast or you will be locked out. I never tasted a better beef stew after our first day of hiking. Food is served family style and is all you can eat. It is an excellent way to converse, get to know your fellow hikers, and exchange stories. We were a bit surprised to see families with kids. We even saw a mother with an infant hiking out of the canyon upon our decent.

Phantom Ranch - Canteen, place setting for dinner of 40.

Phantom Ranch - Canteen 

Our two nights at the Ranch were just enough time to rest and rejuvenate our tired legs. And so on day two we began the ascent back up to the South Rim. We unfortunately experienced some clouds, and rain which also produced lots of mud. So at times we could not see the landscape above or below due to cloud cover. In reality the clouds offered a dramatic photographic opportunity of mystery and elusiveness.

Grand Canyon - near the South Rim

Our reward waiting for us at the top was the historical El Tovar hotel. We were never so happy to get in from the cold, wet weather, take a hot shower and relax with a glass of champagne. If you ever have the opportunity to stay at El Tovar, I highly recommend it. Built in 1905, and situated on the Rim, the interior is a logged structure boasting fine dining, bar, fireplace, and two gift shops and considered the "Crown Jewel" of the Historical National Park Lodges. This vacation was physically challenging, gratifying and will remain a special place that George and I will treasure for many, many years to come.

Grand Canyon - El Tovar Hotel

Here's more photos of our trip.

Grand Canyon - South Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon - South Kaibab Trail

Old Scottsdale, AZ

Grand Canyon - waiting for the bus to the trailhead

Grand Canyon, AZ

Grand Canyon - South Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon - South Kaibab Trail

Sedona, AZ

Sedona, AZ

Old Scottsdale, AZ

Old Scottsdale, AZ

Grand Canyon, AZ - Indian Garden below

Grand Canyon - Bright Angel Inn lobby

Sedona, AZ - getting our party on

Grand Canyon - South Kaibab Trail

Quebec City, Quebec, Canada

Within the ramparts of Old Quebec City you will find a quaint, clean, and vibrant European atmosphere to walk, shop, dine, lounge and take in its history. Because along with two other North American cities (Jamestown and St. Augustine), it occupies the status as one of the oldest. Founded in 1608 by Samuel de Champlain who set sail from Honfleur, France, Champlain discovered a strategic location where the St. Lawrence River narrows and cliffs separate the land from the water. It was once the capital during the New France reign until 1760 when the British defeated the French. Today it is a Unesco World Heritage site.

Old Quebec reminded us of France in several ways, the language, clothing, advertisements, food and drink, but moose antlers hung on a pub wall, along with  hockey sticks in hand, are a dead give away that you are in Canada.

There is much to see and do here. Museums, interesting architecture, horse drawn carriage rides, walking tours, art galleries and exhibitions, and street musicians to name a few. We had the opportunity see a Cirque du Soleil performance, compliments of the taxpaying citizens of Quebec. There is an upper and lower part of the old town, so you will find several steep inclines worthy of commencing a cardiac arrest, but never fear there is a funicular to assist with these abrupt inclines for the less fit.

Quebec City, Quebec

Quebec City, Quebec

Maple taffy - Quebec City

Old Port - Quebec City

Notre-Dame-des-Victories Church, the oldest church
in North America, built in 1688 - Quebec City

We found several of these troupe-l'oeil murals in Quebec City's Old Port

The Parliament building is a towering structure just outside the walled city and is home to the National Assembly. We were able to tour the National Assembly Chamber and other parts of the building. It was interesting to learn about the Canadian government and how it functions. The gardens surrounding the building were outstanding.

Parliament Building - Quebec City

Parliament Building - Quebec City

Parliament Building - Quebec City

Parliament Chamber - Quebec City

We also toured the Citadelle of Quebec. Rebuilt, in the star shape as you would find it today, it was envisioned for defense of potential attack from American forces. It is still a military installation housing approximately eighty personnel. Changing of the guards along with the goat mascot is an event held during the summer months.

Standing guard to the entrance of the Citadel, they can not laugh, speak, or look at you
Citadelle of Quebec

After visiting Canada many times in our lifetime, we have come to learn that the Canadians relish their outdoor activities and bicycling is no exception. In fact, along the St Lawrence River there is a long bike trail that seemed to go forever. And so we found a bike rental store and rode to Montmorency Falls, a short 8+ miles east of the city. We have to agree with our French friend Renée, who is a native Québécois, that is was worth a visit. It is 272 feet (83 meters) high, 100 feet higher than Niagara Falls.

Montmorency Falls, Quebec, Canada

You would not find us doing this - Quebec, Canada

From the base of the falls you can take this long staircase to the top, cross the suspended bridge and have lunch overlooking the St Lawrence River. View from suspended bridge - Montmorency Falls, Quebec

Lunch stop, Manoir Montmorency offered panoramic views - Quebec

Montmorency Falls, Quebec, Canada

On our last day we rented a car and visited the Îsle d'Orleans. Here we discovered adorable residential cottages, farms, orchards, wineries, cheese making, restaurants, and inns. The island's circumference is 42 miles. You can see great view of the city from the island.

The following photographs are lampshades featuring reproductions of paintings that are on permanent collection at the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec. They were located on the street of our hotel, Avenue Cartier. They measure eight feet in diameter and five feet tall. They were spectacular at night and during the day.

Here's more photographs of our travels to Quebec, Canada.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/73641767@N05/64e680

Telluride, Colorado

It is hard to believe that Telluride ski resort has only been in existence since 1972. Telluride is rated in the top 10 ski resorts in North American, but you wouldn't guess that by the lack of crowds on the slopes; lift lines didn't exist except on rare occasions. It is Colorado's best kept secret and any resident will tell you that they would like to keep it that way, thank you very much.

Beverage stop

On the slopes, Telluride, CO

It is not the easiest resort to journey to, but once you get there, a car is not needed for there are free buses that loops around the town on a frequent basis and also a free gondola offered to the public from 7am to 12 midnight between Telluride and Mountain Village. It is just as easy to walk the entire town of Telluride. And if you do step that big toe of yours off the sidewalk taking aim for crossing the street, you can expect the slow moving vehicles to stop and allow you to cross. A walk around town will provide you with places of interest by these plaques describing former brothels, dance halls, saloons, theatre, etc.

The super great thing about the town of Telluride is that you won't find any chain restaurants/stores except for a Starbucks in the Mountain Village, the purpose built town on the other side of the the mountain from Telluride. Another great thing about Telluride is the lack of crime. Our friends rented ski equipment and were told by the rental shop to put the skis and boots out on the porch for pickup, saying that they might pick them up that evening, or the next morning. The next morning? In fact, the skis were still there in the morning. George and I were sitting outside a coffee shop one morning and a resident placed her expensive phone and wallet on a table and walked inside the shop, for what seemed like ten minutes. I am confident that she felt safe leaving her belongings on that table, it was no accident. Oh where, oh where else, can we find a community like this.

Telluride's origin began with native Americans of the Ute Indian tribe using the area as summer hunting grounds. However, once gold, silver, and other precious metals where discovered in the 1870's, agreements were made with the Ute tribe, which displaced them to Southwest Colorado.

Miner's cabin - Telluride, CO - 1916
Photo of photo taken at the Telluride Court House

Mining transformed the town, and by the turn of the century its population swelled to 5,000 residents. A railroad was built to augment the mining efforts and connect Telluride with the rest of the world. Today you can find 350 miles of mining tunnels in the Telluride Mountains. It was the first city in the world to have electric streetlights. Incidentally, the infamous Butch Cassidy's outlaw career started in Telluride, after robbing his very first bank of $24,000.

Telluride's booming economy ended when the price of silver plummeted, along with the start of WWI, and the Great Depression, and thus the population dipped to just a few hundred people.

I thought this photo was interesting because of the bear in the photo, a camera shy bear.
Photo of photo taken at the Telluride Court House. 

Thanks to the ski industry, Telluride was resurrected to what it is today. A quiet, laid back town, offering great skiing, pricey real estate, and beautiful surroundings. Telluride sits in a box canyon that wraps a 180 degree stunning panorama of the mountains.

On Main Street in Telluride

During our shuttle ride from the airport, our driver told us about a Quentin Tarantino movie that was being shot in a nearby ranch. So everyday we were on celebrity watch. Our last night in Telluride we spotted Kurt Russell and Walton Goggins in a restaurant. Kurt had a full beard that was apropos for the movie,  Hateful Eight, a post-Civil War western. He kindly gave me his autograph.

Kurt Russel autograph

The skiing was very good, but we have to say the snowfall in western North American, thus far, has been below average levels. I think we experienced the ski mountain at its worse, as one resident mentioned. Our skis did take a beating on the exposed rocks and debris. But we could never complain about the abundance of clear blue, sunshine days and warm temperatures, which always makes for a happy skier, despite the shortage of snow.

Here are some photos:

Telluride, CO

At a French Restaurant on the mountain.
Do any of our French friends recognize the glassware?

Mountain Village

View from our condo

These big tire bikes are very popular in Telluride

Court House - Telluride, CO

George has taken a new profession,
can you guess what it is?

View from the slopes

Our compadres, Sue, Gary, and George

Selfie

Telluride, CO

Artifacts from the mining industry - Telluride, CO

There are many cute homes like this and the photo below. I wouldn't be surprised if
they cost more than a million dollars especially if they are historic structures.

Telluride, CO

Telluride, CO