Venice, Italy

Where do we begin - a city like none other.

We arrived very late in the darkness of night. Black water surrounding us, street lamps glistening and refracting onto the water along with the still dim evening lights of residences enjoying the evening quiet.

And quiet it is. With no cars, only man-powered or motor-powered boats, and an occasional seagull not pleased with the food division, there is not much else to disturb the silentness of the narrow canals and streets. We stepped off the water-bus and made our way down a dimly lit street not more than four feet wide.

We wondered what awaited us in the morning light. We were lucky to have a terrace overlooking a small canal, and as we awoke and ventured onto the terrace I rubbed my eyes. Is that bell tower really leaning that much? Yes.

Venice, Italy

Sitting at breakfast the next morning, George could see a gondolier's head go by the window, then another, and another. Oh wow, they're going right past our hotel. Our narrow canal was a much traveled waterway for the many gondoliers and it was fun to see just their heads each morning propelling their boats quietly past the window. On the back side of our hotel a door opened to the canal for boarding boats.

Our hotel offered a free ride to Murano, the island where the famous artisan glass blowers have produced their coveted glass for centuries. As the saying goes, if it's free, there's got to be a catch, however this time there was an exceptions to this rule. We were shown the artists in action and then, of course, escorted through the two level showroom display of gorgeous glass pieces.

The ride to Murano was interesting and we got to see in the morning light, the life of Venice on the water. Everything is done by boat; furniture moving, garbage removal, and even a casket aboard a boat with flowers adorning the top.

Venice, Italy

We were anxious to see Venice, so we did not explore Murano very much. In all reality, we were still questioning the validity of the free ride, wondering how long it would take, and exactly how we were returning. This wasn't totally clear to us. We could have simply paid a water taxi back to Venice. All turned out fine, we returned to Venice without much delay.

Surprisingly, the water in Venice is much clearer and cleaner than we imagined. I wouldn't swim in it, but it had a turquoise-ish color and visibility of about two feet, give or take. And with all the people living and visiting Venice, there was very little litter in the water.

Our first morning leaving the hotel there were two guys with golf bags. We thought this was very odd, but on the map we noticed later, a golf bag symbol on an island far away. Who would have thought.

We were told about the flooding in Venice. It usually occurs later in November during the full moon. There is an alarm that sounds throughout the city informing the Venetians that high water is coming, but the high water doesn't last but for several hours, then subsides. Boots were available for guests of our hotel or you could purchase them at shoe stores.

Venice, Italy

Throughout our walks in the city you could see wood plate-forms which we were told is common and provides a walkway to keep your feet dry during flooding.

Venice, Italy

And people also take the precautions to use gasketed barricades to hold back the water during the floods. 

Venice, Italy

With 400 bridges and 150 canals it is relatively easy to walk to other parts of the city, the signage is not perfect, but we didn't experience much trouble. The vast majority of the streets are narrow enough for two individuals to pass one another, but not much more. But it is also easy to jump on the water-bus to get where you want to go. There are many stops, taxis are also available.

Venice, Italy - water-bus

We visited several churches, exhibitions of glass and 17th century musical instruments, and the Museo Correr. And after dinner, we happen to be walking by a classical string instrument concert during intermission and snuck in, took a seat for the last set of their performance, what outlaws we are! There was too much to see and do with our limited time.

While it is a very touristy thing to do, ride a gondola, we couldn't help ourselves, but do it. So I ask the gondolier if he sang and with an apprehensive smile, he said yes.

It would be difficult to mistake this city for anywhere else. We were in awe of the culture and lifestyle that Venetians live everyday. It is truly a unique city.


Here's some more photos:

http://flic.kr/ps/285kjt

Zurich, Switzerland

What things come to mind when thinking of Switzerland. Of course chocolate, Swiss Army Knives, cheese, and watches. All are abundantly found in every corner of Switzerland and Zurich was no exception. In fact, I don't know if there is anything you can't find in this ritzy city.

If you ever visit Switzerland, you will no doubt, experience sticker-shock. It seems you can't go to the bathroom without paying something. But this could be my imagination running wild. We were able to borrow an umbrella from the hotel for free, so there you have it, some things are free. And lest I forget, you can borrow bicycles for free in the city at four locations, which is super nice, because the lake views are spectacular.

But you can smell the money in the air, and in the cars that travel the streets, there is a lot of wealth in Zurich.

Zurich, Switzerland - Wiesmann automobile

The Bahnhofstrasse is one of the world's most exclusive and expensive shopping avenues. Every high-end designer can be found here, but it was a street we only partially walked. We enjoyed ourselves in the old town section of the city on both sides of the river, window shopping, visiting pubs, and restaurants. Even at the most common of cafes, sheep skins covered the outside chairs and/or blankets were provided to thwart the cold air. We happened upon the Saturday Ohio State football game on a television, a little bit of home, since we have been unable to watch college football this season.

Zurich, Switzerland - you often see blankets
for patrons in outside seating areas.

Lake Zurich is a remarkable sight with snow-capped mountains draping the landscape to the south, several 13th century church steeples with golden clock faces towering over the city, and narrow winding, cobblestoned streets. The Limmat River flows from Lake Zurich and provides the city with picturesque views throughout. The day we were there, sculling race competitions where starting in the lake and finishing in the heart of the city. If there was one word to describe Zurich, it would be - clean. The swiss take great pride in keeping their city clean and orderly.

Quality museums can be found in Zurich, too many to visit for a 3-day weekend, but we couldn't miss the special exhibition by expressionist artist, Edvard Munch. You might know this artist by his most famous work, The Scream, (which has been stolen and recovered in the last decade). We were able to witness the lithograph version of this work at the the Kunsthaus Museum Zurich, a premier museum holding many famous works from the 15th century to the present. We also visited the Museum of Design dedicated to industrial design, visual communication, architecture and craft, whose current exhibition was Martin Parr Photography.

Our time in Zurich went quickly and we hope to return to this lovely city before our time comes to an end in France.

Here's some photos of our weekend.

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland - Limmat River

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland - Limmat River

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland

Zurich, Switzerland - roasted chestnuts for sale

Zurich, Switzerland - Alps in the distance

Zurich, Switzerland - Opera

Zurich, Switzerland

Provence, France

With US friends, Lisa and Larry, visiting us this past week our travels took us to the South of France. Provence to be exact.

I have come to realize that Provence is a vast landscape. It is understandable why people return to this area again and again with the never ending sunshine, the quaint villages, the big blue waters of the Mediterranean with its spectacular rock formations plunging into the sea, fabulous beaches, and amazing art museums. For a late October visit, we were pleasantly surprised by the mild, warm weather.

With so much to see and do, it is a challenge deciding where to begin exploring, but our friends didn't, they chose Gorges du Verdon for our first adventure. Gorges du Verdon is the largest canyon in Europe, second only in the world to, you guessed it, America's Grand Canyon.

But before getting to the Gorges, we were drawn to a hillside medieval village and castle. Not finding this village in our tour books, made it all the more mysterious and interesting, we had to take a look. A small parking lot on the village edge, suggested that visitors walk the village. Trigance, a tiny hamlet built around the 11th century furnished magnificent view into the valley below, especially from the castle, turned hotel, perched high atop, overlooking the village. It had a charm all its own with friendly neighborhood dogs and cats roaming the narrow stone streets, old stone homes and walls, and a path that crisscrossed to the castle above.

Trigance, France

Trigance, France

Trigance, France - castle steps

Trigance, France - entrance to the castle

Trigance, France - Castle dining room

Getting to the Gorges du Verdon is a fusion of switchbacks, hairpin turns, oncoming traffic occasionally on our side of the road, and did I say curvy roads, along with breathtaking scenery.

With our first sight of the Gorges we were struck by the emerald green stream which stands out against the barren, rocky landscape of the Gorges. Both narrow and deep (2300 feet at its deepest) it is a rock climbers paradise no doubt. Hiking, bungee jumping, rafting, and canyoning are also popular activities. The stream eventually spills into the man made, Sainte-Croix Lake.

Gorges du Verdon, France

Gorges du Verdon, France

Gorges du Verdon, France

Gorges du Verdon, France

Exiting the western end of the canyon we came upon another quaint village, Aiguines. Along with a 17th century Renaissance-style castle, there were many artists workshops and an abundance of gift shops too. Clean, friendly, and with views of the emerald colored Sainte-Croix Lake, it was a pleasant stop.

Aiguines, France - Sainte-Croix Lake in the background

Aiguines, France 

Aiguines, France

Aiguines, France

The following day, Nice was our destination, but like so many times before in our travels, getting sidetracked by things we observe along the way is common, and this day was no different. Sometimes it's best not to listen to the GPS and just follow your nose. And we're thankful we did because the drive along the French Riviera from Saint Raphael to Nice was a stunner.

French Riviera, France

French Riviera, France

French Riviera, France

French Riviera, France

Cannes, France

The Marc Chagall Museum located in Nice, is dedicated to this famous Russian artist and I was glad Lisa suggested going there. I first came to know this artist by his stain-glass works several years ago, but I believe he is more well known for his paintings. Just 70 minutes from our home we can visit a work by Chagall at the Metz Cathedral. You can also find his work on the ceiling of the Paris Opera.

Metz Cathedral - Marc Chagall stain-glass

What surprised me the most about Nice, is the beach. It is covered by smooth stones, there is no sand. I don't know how this came to be, but it could be, not so comfy for sunbathing.

Nice, France

Nice, France

The architecture in Nice is quite exceptional and you can frequently see Italian influences. We walked the old town which I always love to do. It is a maze of narrow streets where you will find the locals relaxing in little outdoor cafes, laundry flapping in the sea breeze and many vendors selling their wares.

Nice, France

Nice, France 

Nice, France

Nice, France - old town

Nice, France - Place Masenna

Nice, France - Notre Dame

For our last day in Provence, we decided to visit the adorable town of Tourrettes-sur-Loup, also known as the City of Violets. Violets are a big business here with many sent to Grasse (the perfume capital), made into candy, and the cause for a celebration each March. There's even a Violet Museum with greenhouses adjoining the museum.

Not only are violets popular here, but nearly 30 artisans studios exist that include jewelry, pottery, original clothing, woodworkers, painters, sculptors, and fabric designers. At dusk, men and women were playing petanque (boules) in the town square, a nice way to end a day. I just loved this town and couldn't stop taking photographs. It is the quintessential Provence, everything you could imagine Provence to be, rolled into one.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France

Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France

Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France

Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France

Tourrettes-sur-Loup, France

Just down the road from Tourrettes-sur-Loup is the Confiserie Florian where a multitude of marmalade, chocolates, soft and hard candies, and sugar-permeated fruits are made. The most unusual products sold here are the sugar coated rose petals, verbena leaves, and violets. We took the guided tour and discovered that much of the process was all done by hand. Individuals laying each rose petal, each verbena leaf on a tray and covering it with sugar, wow, a very labor intensive process resulting in a very expensive product.

Coating verbena leaves

We parted ways with our friends in Provence and rejoined them in Paris for several days visiting the Louvre, Montmarte, Avenue des Champs-Elysees, and riding the tour bus.

Here's some more photos at this link:

http://flic.kr/s/aHsjLBx68L