What About Sue and George: 2017

Our national parks are the jewels of the United States. We all own a piece of these magnificent wildernesses to go and observe, walk, stay, photograph, make memories, contemplate, and lose ourselves in the great outdoors. With little acceptation, the Grand Daddy of all the parks, the Grand Canyon National Park, provides breathtaking views, geological wonders, extraordinary experiences, and a rich history of indigenous cultures. That is why people from every corner of the earth pay visit to this park 365 days of the year.

But first let's begin our trip in Phoenix. We arrived from 10 degree snowy weather in our beloved Cleveland, to 60 degree, sunny skies in the state capital of Arizona, wahooo, I could get use to this. Old Scottsdale was our base, where you will find many restaurants, shops, and art galleries, within easy walking distance, and to museums, just a short drive by car. I was surprised by the canal system that exists in Phoenix. I believe it is used strictly for irrigation and drinking, the low hanging bridges would not allow boats to travel for any significant distance.

I have visited Arizona many times but I have to admit that I didn't know much of its history. The AZ Heritage Center at Papago Park provides a look back in time to native indian cultures, water preservation, mining, UFO sitings, and the Japanese encampments during WWII.

Situated astonishingly close to the airport is the Pueblo Grande Museum and Archaeological Park. This prehistoric site offers remains of Hohokam people's dwellings, ball court, and artifacts found during archaeological endeavors. They were the first people of the Phoenix area to build intricate canals for desert farming and are believed to have occupied this area from approximately AD 1 to 1450.

Phoenix, AZ - Pueblo Grand Archaeological Park

From Phoenix to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon would not be complete without a short diversion off I-17 to Sedona.

Sedona, AZ - Arriving at sundown

Sedona, AZ - View from our hotel, looking northwest

Sedona, AZ - out hiking, view looking south

Sedona, AZ - hiking

Oh to be a bird and have the capacity to fly over this incredible scenery. The vermillion-colored landscape of buttes, spires, and domes changes from sunrise to sundown. One of the natural attractions of Sedona are the Vortexes, which are believed to be energy sites that enhance meditation, healing, and creativity. A Vortex is not one particular site, but a general area of enhanced energy. It is easy to find trees with twisted trunks evidence of the energy flow. Whether you believe in the vortex or not, it is a phenomenon that has taken hold. Personally, I did not feel any connection to the vortex, however in a prior visit to Sedona, we have observed people sitting on a blanket, in the middle of nowhere in a meditative state. It is a personal experience that is difficult to describe.

But if the Vortex is not your thing, there are numerous other things to do: hike (100+ trails), bike, take a helicopter, ballon, or jeep ride, rock climb, and enjoy the art culture to name just a few. One of the "not to miss", things to do is watch the sunset and the dramatic color changes to the red rocks surrounding the landscape. Spectacular!!!

Sedona, AZ

The pinnacle of this trip was to hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and stay overnight at Phantom Ranch with our friends Beth and Dave. In 2011 we hiked, stayed overnight, and loved it so much we wanted to do it again. If you think Sedona is beautiful beyond measure, there really are no words to describe the Grand Canyon. And few, if any, photographs can truly capture the enormity or vastness of space that you will witness.

South Rim Grand Canyon, Arizona. Almost positive that the zig zag trail you see in the lower right of this photo is an up close photo below. It is a steep part of the trail, mules rested several times before continuing.

Grand Canyon AZ - mule train

Theodore Roosevelt known as the "conservationist president" declared the Grand Canyon a National Monument in 1908 and eight years later was named a National Park by act of Congress.

"Let this great wonder of nature remain as it now is. Do nothing to mar its grandeur, sublimity, and loveliness. You cannot improve on it. But what you can do is to keep it for your children, your children's children, and all who come after you, as the one great sight which every American should see." - Theodore Roosevelt

The Canyon, at 277 miles in length, 18 miles wide, and a mile deep, tells the dramatic erosion of water's artistic prowess with remarkable colors of rock at each sequential level of the canyon. It is difficult to fathom that the basement of time boasts rock that is two billion years old.

The descending hike to Phanton Ranch by way of South Kaibab Trail and the return by Bright Angel Trail (approximately 7.5 miles and 10.5 miles respectively) is the recommended route by foot. Commonly passing you on both trails are mule trains transporting people, food, supplies, and mail to Phantom Ranch and returning to the South Rim. Nothing motorized is used in this transfer of necessities.

Phantom Ranch - pouch for outgoing mail to the rim.

We were astonished by trail runners who, yes, run the trails for an athletic challenge. A fellow on the bus to the South Kaibab Trailhead told us he was running down and up that trail the same day. We passed him later in morning walking at this point, the beauty can stop you in your tracks. He reached the river in 1.5 hours, camera in hand no less.

On our prior trip to Phantom Ranch we stayed in the dorms which house about 10 people in each, one for boys and one for girls. This time we decided to splurge a bit and rented a four person cabin. It was the cutest little accommodation, just perfect.

Phantom Ranch - Cabin #11, our accommodations.

Phantom Ranch - Our cabin, what you see is basically what you get, with a separate tiny toilet room.

It was in 1907 that the first tented community was developed on what is now known as Phantom Ranch. Soon after the National Park designation, the transformation began by the hiring of Mary Colter, the architect of the Phantom Ranch. Once called the "Roosevelt Chalet" the name Phantom Ranch was proposed by her that offered a more romantic, mysterious aspect and was inspired by the small canyon just north, of the same name.

There was once an orchard, a pool, and in 1930's a telephone line was installed for use by guests. The first bridge over the Colorado was built in 1921, before that, people, mules, and supplies were carried by a suspended cable car.

There is a calming isolation about the Ranch that is unmatched to anywhere else I have been. There is no wifi for visitors, no TV, and only a pay telephone for guests, you are truly unplugged. There is a posting of the days/weeks weather in the Canteen which is the only thing that is really important to your connection to the outside world.

The canteen is the central hub of Phantom Ranch. Accommodations check-in for both campers and cabins/dorms, dining, drinking, buying souvenirs, and postal service, all are handled by usually one person. Notice is given by the ring of the dinner bell of your prearranged dinner/breakfast time and you better get there fast or you will be locked out. I never tasted a better beef stew after our first day of hiking. Food is served family style and is all you can eat. It is an excellent way to converse, get to know your fellow hikers, and exchange stories. We were a bit surprised to see families with kids. We even saw a mother with an infant hiking out of the canyon upon our decent.

Phantom Ranch - Canteen, place setting for dinner of 40.

Phantom Ranch - Canteen

Our two nights at the Ranch were just enough time to rest and rejuvenate our tired legs. And so on day two we began the ascent back up to the South Rim. We unfortunately experienced some clouds, and rain which also produced lots of mud. So at times we could not see the landscape above or below due to cloud cover. In reality the clouds offered a dramatic photographic opportunity of mystery and elusiveness.

Grand Canyon - near the South Rim

Our reward waiting for us at the top was the historical El Tovar hotel. We were never so happy to get in from the cold, wet weather, take a hot shower and relax with a glass of champagne. If you ever have the opportunity to stay at El Tovar, I highly recommend it. Built in 1905, and situated on the Rim, the interior is a logged structure boasting fine dining, bar, fireplace, and two gift shops and considered the "Crown Jewel" of the Historical National Park Lodges. This vacation was physically challenging, gratifying and will remain a special place that George and I will treasure for many, many years to come.