Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Besançon, France

The birthplace of Victor Hugo, the Citadelle (UNESCO World Heritage Site), and a rich clock making history are but a few of the many things to see and do in Besançon. What better way to take in the sights of a city than by foot or by bike, and we did both. With the Doubs River forming a horseshoe around the city, it was easy to keep our bearings and navigate in all directions. And we kept asking ourselves why we never ventured to this city before, being that it is roughly two hours from our home.

Birthplace of Victor Hugo, the poet and novelist.
His most famous literary works; Les Misérables and 
Notre-Dame de Paris (The Hunchback of Notre-Dame) 
Besançon's abundant fortifications can be seen throughout the city both high above at the Citadelle and surrounding the old town along the river. It was designed by Sébastien Le Prestre, Maréchal de Vauban and helped to define Europe's borders and influenced military architecture around the world for more than two centuries. With its walls averaging 17 feet thick, it is hard to imagine any military foe penetrating the Citadelle. It is one of Vauban's greatest achievements and is well preserved to this day. The high cliffs towering over the Doubs River rendered the Citadelle an excellent location for military strategies since Gallo-Roman times.

Citadelle
Diagram of the Citadelle - Vauban designed three gateways before the enemy could reach the king and queen.
Besançon, France - Doubs River
Other evidence of Gallo-Roman existence can be seen along the street leading to the Citadelle.

Roman triumphal archway. Erected in 175 A.D. in honor of emperor Marcus Aurelius
Roman triumphal arch
Roman columns excavated here and placed as part of this park.
Ancient aqueduct's water distribution tank
In the Museum of Fine Arts and Archeology you will discover Roman remains found during excavation periods in the city of Besançon. We were able to see only part of this museum as it is preparing to close this month for renovation.

Museum of Fine Arts and Archeology - Roman mosaic
The downtown shopping area of Besançon has something for everyone and being a college city adds to its vibrancy. Many beautiful and historic churches dot the city.

Sainte-Madeleine Church- built in 18th century
Confectioner shop window - preparing for Easter
Love this notion of artisan bread
Meringue is very popular in France
Ahhhh the cheese
The great thing about Besançon is that there are plaques next to significant historical buildings telling you a brief description about it. The architecture in Besançon is significant in itself. On the way to the museum we came upon this 13th century wooden arcade.


Completed in 1857 and located in the tower of Saint John's Cathedral is an Astronomical Clock extraordinaire. This clock has 30,000 mechanical working parts and 122 interdependent indications of time - times, dates, seasons, lengths of day and night, leap years, signs of the zodiac, tides at eight different maritime French cities, the times of 20 cities around the world, solar time, solstices and many more. It took two years to build.

The side of the clock depicting maritime French cities.
Clock front




Several miles south of Besançon, in Arbois, is the homestead of Louis Pasteur. We were disappointed to arrive too late to tour his home and the preserved laboratory. Compared to the significant contributions Pasteur made in the study of microbiology, his home is understated without a doubt.

Louis Pasteur homestead - Arbois, France
Arbois is in the heart of the beautiful Jura wine region. Home to vin jaune (yellow wine), a unique wine that has a definite acquired taste. This wine ages for six years before bottled and tastes similar to a sherry wine but different. Arbois is your typical wine country town with vendors selling their wines in the centrally located shops.

Here's a link to some more photos:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjX6HnYE

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Méribel, France

In early March we spent a week in Méribel skiing to our hearts content. I've written about Les Trois Vallée (The Three Valleys) before, but we did not stay in this delightful small town then.

Méribel - Centre
Méribel is an adorable town with somewhat Swiss looking wooden buildings, unlike the concrete buildings we've seen in other Alpine villages. Several Winter Olympics events occurred here during the 1992 Albertville games including ice hockey and the alpine women's ski events. Regrettably, it is also where Grand Prix driver, Michael Schumacher hit his head during a fall (he was wearing a helmet) in December 2013, his recovery is still in question.

Méribel - the left, large roofed building is where the olympic ice hockey facility is located.
We made every effort to arrive in Méribel by early Saturday. Our plans were to check-in, change our clothes and hit the slopes, but often the best laid plans don't happen as you wish. True to the notion, we drove on Friday evening until close to 10PM, found a hotel and was back on the road by 9:30AM. But upon entering the highway, there was slow moving traffic. We had been warned about the Alps traffic in March due to school holidays. The school holidays can cause havoc winter or summer.

France is divided into three regions for school holidays, with each region taking a different two weeks off. So there are a lot of people going in the same direction, at the same time. And we got caught up in this frenzy of getting to the slopes. However, who would have thought at 9:30 in the morning two hours away on a four-lane highway that there would be this type of crazyness. While sitting in traffic we saw people getting out of their cars and walking beside the moving vehicles.

By noon George and I had enough. And to our left we could see vineyards. Hmmmmmm. For some reason, all of a sudden the car, on its own, drove off the highway and headed straight for the vineyards, we could not stop it. Have you ever experienced a car like this? We are one lucky couple to have a vehicle with this foresight. So what else could we do but taste some wine, buy some wine, have a nice lunch...then get back into traffic again. We arrived close to 7PM. What a day!

It snowed all day on Saturday, Sunday, Monday, and most of Tuesday. The rest of the week was blue skies, endless sunshine, and warm temperatures. So we had the best of both worlds; powder and sunshine. We were able to skirt the crowds on the slopes the majority of the time. Les Trois Vallées is a huge area and it is relatively easy to get away from the crowds except first thing in the morning and the last run of the day.

It was Carnival (Mardi Gras) in Méribel so we saw many, many people wearing kooky outfits, unrelated to skiing, on the slopes.

Méribel - Carnival time
One of the best outfits was a fly - he had sheer fabric for wings and they floated behind him as he skied. We also saw stripped jailbirds, large groups of people with matching hats and of course beads, tigers, lions, and dogs. I wish I could have gotten more photos, but you had to be fast.

Our rented apartment was located high above the town with wonderful views of the valley below. We had everything we needed, and ski-in and out, it was great.

View from our apartment
We spent more time skiing in Courcheval this time around, since it was just a lift away. Courcheval also hosted Winter Olympic events in 1992 and one evening we drove to Courcheval and happened to see the ski jumping facility.

On two occasions, we saw a biplane take off from the tiny Courcheval airport above the town and perform acrobats; upside down, flying straight up into the air, loops, vapor out the back, it was exciting to watch. Because of, or lack of our vantage point, sometimes it seemed like the plane was going to run smack into the mountain. This small airport with private planes, the cars on the streets, and the general attire (i.e. furs and sensationally expensive ski outfits) of the people in Courcheval, you can't help but recognize that this town is a cut above the rest.

Something unusual to us on the slopes of Courcheval was an American Indian display. Teepee, bow and arrow shooting range, and placards describing the life of the indians and the Battle of Little Bighorn. It was all for kids, we guessed. There also was a pack of three dogs pulling kids on skis around this area.

Courcheval - American Indian display

Courcheval - American Indian display

Courcheval - Kids on skis pulled by dogs



















It took roughly one hour to reach Val Thorens on skis, but it was well worth the effort. This is the highest elevation of Les Trois Vallée and the highest altitude ski resort in Europe. And because of this, you can ski there much later in the season than the other resorts in the Alps. Spectacular views from the Cime de Caron, the highest skiing point in Les Trois Vallées. Here's a video from the top.


Méribel, without a doubt would be our favorite of the four areas that encompass Les Trois Vallée. The skiing is fantastic and the town atmosphere is laid back. The people are friendly and there is something for everyone.

Here's some more photos.

Ingenious way to hold skis in a gondola - place skis in holes on the floor
Val Thorens - Cime de Caron
Val Thorens in the distance
Les Menuires - mid photo 
Lunch break
Between Méribel and Courcheval
Frosty hair
Our apartment building
Méribel market day 
Méribel market day
Méribel
Méribel
Courcheval
Apré ski
Courcheval
Méribel


Saturday, February 8, 2014

Portes du Soleil

What does a car-less village, horse drawn sleighs transporting you to your accommodations, and lots of snow have in common. Avoraiz, one of twelve ski resorts encompassing Portes du Soleil. Our friends had told us about the horse drawn sleighs in Avoraiz, but we had to see it for ourselves. With our skis underfoot, we stood in the town and listened for the familiar sleigh bells transforming the atmosphere into something magical. It was so cool, it was a WOW moment.

Avoraiz, France
Avoraiz, France
Portes du Soleil claims to be the largest ski resort in the world...and so does Les Trois Vallées, but whichever is factual, all that matters is that there is an unbelievable amount of ski domain. From what we learned it isn't so easy to get to some of the other resorts on skis, sometimes requiring a bus ride. We skied the slopes of Avoraiz, Chatel, and Morzine. I think there were more British in our midst than French from what we could hear. It is awfully easy for people of the UK to fly to Geneva with a 40 minute shuttle to the resorts. Even our hotel was owned by a British family, with pens in the back for rabbits and geese.

We arrived on Saturday and since Saturdays are mostly transition days (people leaving, people arriving) we had the slopes to ourselves. Sunday was foggy along with flat light, causing a lack of depth perception, which only hampers my need for speed on skis.

It all made up for itself, because Monday was a perfect ski day. You skiers know what I'm talk'n about -endless blue skies, powder, warm temperatures, having lunch in the sunshine, outside of course. Ahhhhhhhhh.

On the Avoriaz gondola
Our hotel
Lunch stop
Love these posters in the chalets. Festival of the shepherds, the
cows are singing along with the shepherds - Chatel, France
Lunch
It's going to be a good day - Between Avoriaz and Morzine, France
Some people will do anything for attention
Wishing we were still on this chairlift going somewhere
Morzine, France
Morzine, France
Well we have to share with you the funniest thing that happened to us upon departing a little chalet after consuming several hot wine beverages which is customary after a day or during (as you like) of skiing. I picked up my skis, George picked up his skis. And we tried to put them on our boots. For a second I couldn't figure out why my boots would not fit into the bindings. I looked over at George and I could see he was studying the same situation. But, in our defense, there was snow covering the entire ski. OMG, I had his skis and he had mine. Granted, they are similar in color and shape. On top of that, we didn't realize until after a short ways down the mountain, that we had each others poles. I'm glad we were near our hotel. You can not make up this stuff.

Chalet stop for hot wine - (no, this photo was not taken at floor level)