Saturday, February 8, 2014

Portes du Soleil

What does a car-less village, horse drawn sleighs transporting you to your accommodations, and lots of snow have in common. Avoraiz, one of twelve ski resorts encompassing Portes du Soleil. Our friends had told us about the horse drawn sleighs in Avoraiz, but we had to see it for ourselves. With our skis underfoot, we stood in the town and listened for the familiar sleigh bells transforming the atmosphere into something magical. It was so cool, it was a WOW moment.

Avoraiz, France
Avoraiz, France
Portes du Soleil claims to be the largest ski resort in the world...and so does Les Trois Vallées, but whichever is factual, all that matters is that there is an unbelievable amount of ski domain. From what we learned it isn't so easy to get to some of the other resorts on skis, sometimes requiring a bus ride. We skied the slopes of Avoraiz, Chatel, and Morzine. I think there were more British in our midst than French from what we could hear. It is awfully easy for people of the UK to fly to Geneva with a 40 minute shuttle to the resorts. Even our hotel was owned by a British family, with pens in the back for rabbits and geese.

We arrived on Saturday and since Saturdays are mostly transition days (people leaving, people arriving) we had the slopes to ourselves. Sunday was foggy along with flat light, causing a lack of depth perception, which only hampers my need for speed on skis.

It all made up for itself, because Monday was a perfect ski day. You skiers know what I'm talk'n about -endless blue skies, powder, warm temperatures, having lunch in the sunshine, outside of course. Ahhhhhhhhh.

On the Avoriaz gondola
Our hotel
Lunch stop
Love these posters in the chalets. Festival of the shepherds, the
cows are singing along with the shepherds - Chatel, France
Lunch
It's going to be a good day - Between Avoriaz and Morzine, France
Some people will do anything for attention
Wishing we were still on this chairlift going somewhere
Morzine, France
Morzine, France
Well we have to share with you the funniest thing that happened to us upon departing a little chalet after consuming several hot wine beverages which is customary after a day or during (as you like) of skiing. I picked up my skis, George picked up his skis. And we tried to put them on our boots. For a second I couldn't figure out why my boots would not fit into the bindings. I looked over at George and I could see he was studying the same situation. But, in our defense, there was snow covering the entire ski. OMG, I had his skis and he had mine. Granted, they are similar in color and shape. On top of that, we didn't realize until after a short ways down the mountain, that we had each others poles. I'm glad we were near our hotel. You can not make up this stuff.

Chalet stop for hot wine - (no, this photo was not taken at floor level)

Wednesday, January 29, 2014

Fontainbleau, Barbizon

Hello folks!
On the road for a quick weekend in the vicinity of Paris. But this time, albeit myself for a couple of hours, we did not set foot in the city limits.

While waiting for George to finish his work day and with little time on my hands, the Cartier: The Style and the History exhibition was on my to-do list. Jackie Kennedy's purse, Kate Middleton's bridal tiara, and Elizabeth Taylor's ruby necklace and matching earrings were, but a few of the highlights. It was mesmerizing the precious jewels on display and the super rich who commissioned these pieces.

And I popped into the Petite Palais for a quick peak with even less time on my hands. The Palais was built along with the Grand Palais for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. It is a gorgeous architectural wonder and holds a variety of art from ancient to modern. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that admission is free except for temporary exhibitions. I would like to return when I have more time.

Petite Palais
Petite Palais
Petite Palais - garden
Petite Palais
The next day we visited "The true home of kings, the house of ages", as Napoleon I described it; Chateau de Fontainebleau approximately 40 miles southeast of Paris, a Unesco World Heritage site since 1981. After our visit last summer to the Loire Valley where so many castles can be found, I was...you could say...less than excited about visiting another castle. Monumental as they are, Chateau de Fontainebleau has artifacts that are truly fascinating.

Original structures date the first fortification to 1137 and in 1528 under the rein of François I a significant part of the castle was developed. Through the following centuries apartments, new wings of the castle and gardens including a grand canal of approximately 3/4 mile in length were added according to the wishes of the king of the times. Henri IV, Louis, XIV, Louis XV, and Napoleon I all had a significant impact on the present day structure.

Because the Chateau was occupied continuously from the 12th century to the 19th century the tour felt like we were walking through time. Changing architectural styles and symbols of each king can be discovered throughout the castle. Symbols such as François I's personal emblem, the salamander and Napoleon I's, the golden bees. And the personal artifacts of Napoleon I were the most intriguing to both of us.

Napoleon was known for his personal grooming habits and he needed something compact and easily transportable that held it all.

Napoleon's personal grooming kit

A traveling bidet for the king
 

Close up of the vase in the photo above. Does the man on the right with the painters palette look familiar along with the figure seated on the left front with long hair. If you guessed Leonard da Vinci and the Mona Lisa, you are correct. François I was fond of da Vinci.
Library
Ornately carved door
Adjoining the palace is 284 acres of parkland dotted with fountains and includes an orange grove and French and English style gardens. A large diverse forest of 42,000 acres surrounds the palace property and the town of Fontainebleau.

Grand Canal
The hibernating gardens, but surely beautiful during warmer months


Rear of Chateau
On one edge of the forest is the village of Barbizon. Home of the Barbizon School of painters, French artists who rejected the academic traditions of art and wanted to paint a representation of life in the countryside. They were the forerunners of Impressionist painters. A one-lane main street cuts through this adorable town that is quaint as can be.

Along the main street are mosaics of famous works by artists who lived and worked in Barbizon. This mosaic is a copy of a work by Jean-François Millet depicting his famous painting, The Gleaners, that is housed at the Musée d'Orsay, Paris.


The Gleaners, Musée d'Orsay
An inn, the Auberge Ganne once a place where artist came to live and paint, is now a museum. Here the artist of the day spent their time amongst their peers, leaving their mark on the door panels, furniture and walls of the inn.

Stairway with famous artist names who lived at the Auberge Ganne
Auberge Ganne
Auberge Ganne
Auberge Ganne
Church
Unwrapped meat and poultry in small grocery/butcher store
Main street in Barbizon

Friday, November 15, 2013

Venice, Italy

Where do we begin - a city like none other.

We arrived very late in the darkness of night. Black water surrounding us, street lamps glistening and refracting onto the water along with the still dim evening lights of residences enjoying the evening quiet.

And quiet it is. With no cars, only man-powered or motor-powered boats, and an occasional seagull not pleased with the food division, there is not much else to disturb the silentness of the narrow canals and streets. We stepped off the water-bus and made our way down a dimly lit street not more than four feet wide.

We wondered what awaited us in the morning light. We were lucky to have a terrace overlooking a small canal, and as we awoke and ventured onto the terrace I rubbed my eyes. Is that bell tower really leaning that much? Yes.
Venice, Italy
Sitting at breakfast the next morning, George could see a gondolier's head go by the window, then another, and another. Oh wow, they're going right past our hotel. Our narrow canal was a much traveled waterway for the many gondoliers and it was fun to see just their heads each morning propelling their boats quietly past the window. On the back side of our hotel a door opened to the canal for boarding boats.

Our hotel offered a free ride to Murano, the island where the famous artisan glass blowers have produced their coveted glass for centuries. As the saying goes, if it's free, there's got to be a catch, however this time there was an exceptions to this rule. We were shown the artists in action and then, of course, escorted through the two level showroom display of gorgeous glass pieces.

The ride to Murano was interesting and we got to see in the morning light, the life of Venice on the water. Everything is done by boat; furniture moving, garbage removal, and even a casket aboard a boat with flowers adorning the top.

Venice, Italy
We were anxious to see Venice, so we did not explore Murano very much. In all reality, we were still questioning the validity of the free ride, wondering how long it would take, and exactly how we were returning. This wasn't totally clear to us. We could have simply paid a water taxi back to Venice. All turned out fine, we returned to Venice without much delay.

Surprisingly, the water in Venice is much clearer and cleaner than we imagined. I wouldn't swim in it, but it had a turquoise-ish color and visibility of about two feet, give or take. And with all the people living and visiting Venice, there was very little litter in the water.

Our first morning leaving the hotel there were two guys with golf bags. We thought this was very odd, but on the map we noticed later, a golf bag symbol on an island far away. Who would have thought.

We were told about the flooding in Venice. It usually occurs later in November during the full moon. There is an alarm that sounds throughout the city informing the Venetians that high water is coming, but the high water doesn't last but for several hours, then subsides. Boots were available for guests of our hotel or you could purchase them at shoe stores.
Venice, Italy
Throughout our walks in the city you could see wood plate-forms which we were told is common and provides a walkway to keep your feet dry during flooding.

Venice, Italy
And people also take the precautions to use gasketed barricades to hold back the water during the floods. 
Venice, Italy
With 400 bridges and 150 canals it is relatively easy to walk to other parts of the city, the signage is not perfect, but we didn't experience much trouble. The vast majority of the streets are narrow enough for two individuals to pass one another, but not much more. But it is also easy to jump on the water-bus to get where you want to go. There are many stops, taxis are also available.

Venice, Italy - water-bus
We visited several churches, exhibitions of glass and 17th century musical instruments, and the Museo Correr. And after dinner, we happen to be walking by a classical string instrument concert during intermission and snuck in, took a seat for the last set of their performance, what outlaws we are! There was too much to see and do with our limited time.

While it is a very touristy thing to do, ride a gondola, we couldn't help ourselves, but do it. So I ask the gondolier if he sang and with an apprehensive smile, he said yes.




It would be difficult to mistake this city for anywhere else. We were in awe of the culture and lifestyle that Venetians live everyday. It is truly a unique city.


Here's some more photos:

http://flic.kr/ps/285kjt











Tuesday, November 5, 2013

Zurich, Switzerland

What things come to mind when thinking of Switzerland. Of course chocolate, Swiss Army Knives, cheese, and watches. All are abundantly found in every corner of Switzerland and Zurich was no exception. In fact, I don't know if there is anything you can't find in this ritzy city.

If you ever visit Switzerland, you will no doubt, experience sticker-shock. It seems you can't go to the bathroom without paying something. But this could be my imagination running wild. We were able to borrow an umbrella from the hotel for free, so there you have it, some things are free. And lest I forget, you can borrow bicycles for free in the city at four locations, which is super nice, because the lake views are spectacular.

But you can smell the money in the air, and in the cars that travel the streets, there is a lot of wealth in Zurich.
Zurich, Switzerland - Wiesmann automobile
The Bahnhofstrasse is one of the world's most exclusive and expensive shopping avenues. Every high-end designer can be found here, but it was a street we only partially walked. We enjoyed ourselves in the old town section of the city on both sides of the river, window shopping, visiting pubs, and restaurants. Even at the most common of cafes, sheep skins covered the outside chairs and/or blankets were provided to thwart the cold air. We happened upon the Saturday Ohio State football game on a television, a little bit of home, since we have been unable to watch college football this season.

Zurich, Switzerland - you often see blankets
for patrons in outside seating areas.
Lake Zurich is a remarkable sight with snow-capped mountains draping the landscape to the south, several 13th century church steeples with golden clock faces towering over the city, and narrow winding, cobblestoned streets. The Limmat River flows from Lake Zurich and provides the city with picturesque views throughout. The day we were there, sculling race competitions where starting in the lake and finishing in the heart of the city. If there was one word to describe Zurich, it would be - clean. The swiss take great pride in keeping their city clean and orderly.

Quality museums can be found in Zurich, too many to visit for a 3-day weekend, but we couldn't miss the special exhibition by expressionist artist, Edvard Munch. You might know this artist by his most famous work, The Scream, (which has been stolen and recovered in the last decade). We were able to witness the lithograph version of this work at the the Kunsthaus Museum Zurich, a premier museum holding many famous works from the 15th century to the present. We also visited the Museum of Design dedicated to industrial design, visual communication, architecture and craft, whose current exhibition was Martin Parr Photography.

Our time in Zurich went quickly and we hope to return to this lovely city before our time comes to an end in France.

Here's some photos of our weekend.

Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland - Limmat River
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland - Limmat River
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland - roasted chestnuts for sale
Zurich, Switzerland - Alps in the distance
Zurich, Switzerland - Opera
Zurich, Switzerland