Marseille, France

Our first long distance journey by train took us to this port location once known in antiquity as Massilia. It is the oldest and second largest city in France founded around 600 BC. Rising up from the metro in the heartbeat of the city, the Vieux Port, you discern at first blush, that this city has an ethnic diversity unlike other places we have discovered. It is no wonder that it was named the Cultural Capital of Europe.

And with this new status, Marseille unveiled its newest museum in 2013; Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilization (MUCEM). It is a fascinating exhibition and its location could not be more appropriate, contrasting and combining the ultra modern MUCEM with the centuries old Saint Jean Fort at the harbor gateway to the city.

Marseille, France - MUCEM and Saint Jean Fort 

Our initial walk along the port to our hotel, I noticed men carrying sail bags over their shoulders and conversing with one another. It struck me that anyone, on any day of the year, at this very port, could have observed the same event, for the past two millennia.

The daily Fish Market where restaurants and residences source their fish is something not to be missed. Usual and unusual creatures from the depths can be seen and bought. Several fishmongers take efforts to keep their smaller catch alive insuring their freshness. And a visit to Marseille would not be complete without ordering bouillabaisse, which is made from the morning's catch. Many restaurants require you to order this fish soup 24 hours in advance.

Marseille fish market

Marseille fish market - tuna

One of the oldest parts of the city, the Panier, consists of winding, narrow streets where artisan and second-hand shops are the perfect place to purchase something unique. You'll see clothes-lines strung from windows and stray cats lazily wondering here and there. The purveyors were friendly here and it was one of my favorite parts of Marseille. The Panier is also where we found the Fish Spa. For fifteen to thirty minutes you can place your feet into a tank of very small fish. We were told that this type of treatment can be found in Turkey, Greece, and Spain, but it is unique to France. These fish supposedly eat the dead skin from your feet. At first it was a little creepy, but after a bit, it was relaxing. It is something that you have to try for yourself. I have to admit that my feet did not feel much different after these small fry feasted on my feet. I think George enjoyed it much more than myself.

At the Fish Spa

The Panier

The Panier

The Panier

Marseille was once world renown for its soap making industry. In the heyday of this industry, the
"Savon de Marseille" was used for just about anything - washing dishes and clothes, shampoo, and domestic cleaning. But consumers began to enjoy perfumed soaps and the once high demand for Marseille soap has declined over the decades. To be a true "Savon de Marseille" the soap must contain 72% oil and production must follow traditional methods of fabrication. So to get "the real Mccoy" may take some questioning and a little research. And you just might need it to get the fish saliva off your feet after the fish spa.

Savon de Marseille

One of the highlights of our trip to Marseille, wasn't even in the city. The Calanques are a 12 mile stretch of high, sheer cliffs rising up from the turquoise blue Mediterranean waters between Marseille and Cassis. These small, sometimes narrow inlets, where, intermittently, you will find an out-of-this-world beach, are spectacular. We took the bus and hiked into one of France's newest National Parks, and had a memorable picnic by the sea. It will be difficult to match this scene anytime soon.

Calanques

Calanques

Just off the coast of the city of Marseille are the islands of If and Frioul. We jumped on a ferry and visited Frioul for about an hour. There is a rather large marina there and people also live on the island. We were told that you'll find several nice beaches on the island and hiking trails to explore, but we did not partake. It is always good to be out on the water and the ferry also provided excellent views of the city.

Island of Frioul

Island of If and Chateua d'If - The fictional historical
setting for the literary work, Count of Monte Cristo

On the Island of Frioul

Last, but not least, looming over the Marseille landscape is the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde. It is difficult to miss this church high above and it offers fantastic views of the city and the sea. Built in the 19th century, it is ornamented with colored marble and mosaic flooring. Inside the church you can't help but notice the melding of the importance of the fishing industry and that of the church community. 

Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde

Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde

Here are more photos at this link:

https://flic.kr/ps/285kjt

Besançon, France

The birthplace of Victor Hugo, the Citadelle (UNESCO World Heritage Site), and a rich clock making history are but a few of the many things to see and do in Besançon. What better way to take in the sights of a city than by foot or by bike, and we did both. With the Doubs River forming a horseshoe around the city, it was easy to keep our bearings and navigate in all directions. And we kept asking ourselves why we never ventured to this city before, being that it is roughly two hours from our home.

Birthplace of Victor Hugo, the poet and novelist.
His most famous literary works; Les Misérables and 
Notre-Dame de Paris (The Hunchback of Notre-Dame) 

Besançon's abundant fortifications can be seen throughout the city both high above at the Citadelle and surrounding the old town along the river. It was designed by Sébastien Le Prestre, Maréchal de Vauban and helped to define Europe's borders and influenced military architecture around the world for more than two centuries. With its walls averaging 17 feet thick, it is hard to imagine any military foe penetrating the Citadelle. It is one of Vauban's greatest achievements and is well preserved to this day. The high cliffs towering over the Doubs River rendered the Citadelle an excellent location for military strategies since Gallo-Roman times.

Citadelle

Diagram of the Citadelle - Vauban designed three gateways before the enemy could reach the king and queen.

Besançon, France - Doubs River

Other evidence of Gallo-Roman existence can be seen along the street leading to the Citadelle.

Roman triumphal archway. Erected in 175 A.D. in honor of emperor Marcus Aurelius

Roman triumphal arch

Roman columns excavated here and placed as part of this park.

Ancient aqueduct's water distribution tank

In the Museum of Fine Arts and Archeology you will discover Roman remains found during excavation periods in the city of Besançon. We were able to see only part of this museum as it is preparing to close this month for renovation.

Museum of Fine Arts and Archeology - Roman mosaic

The downtown shopping area of Besançon has something for everyone and being a college city adds to its vibrancy. Many beautiful and historic churches dot the city.

Sainte-Madeleine Church- built in 18th century

Confectioner shop window - preparing for Easter

Love this notion of artisan bread

Meringue is very popular in France

Ahhhh the cheese

The great thing about Besançon is that there are plaques next to significant historical buildings telling you a brief description about it. The architecture in Besançon is significant in itself. On the way to the museum we came upon this 13th century wooden arcade.

Completed in 1857 and located in the tower of Saint John's Cathedral is an Astronomical Clock extraordinaire. This clock has 30,000 mechanical working parts and 122 interdependent indications of time - times, dates, seasons, lengths of day and night, leap years, signs of the zodiac, tides at eight different maritime French cities, the times of 20 cities around the world, solar time, solstices and many more. It took two years to build.

The side of the clock depicting maritime French cities.

Clock front

Several miles south of Besançon, in Arbois, is the homestead of Louis Pasteur. We were disappointed to arrive too late to tour his home and the preserved laboratory. Compared to the significant contributions Pasteur made in the study of microbiology, his home is understated without a doubt.

Louis Pasteur homestead - Arbois, France

Arbois is in the heart of the beautiful Jura wine region. Home to vin jaune (yellow wine), a unique wine that has a definite acquired taste. This wine ages for six years before bottled and tastes similar to a sherry wine but different. Arbois is your typical wine country town with vendors selling their wines in the centrally located shops.

Here's a link to some more photos:

https://flic.kr/s/aHsjX6HnYE