Wednesday, April 23, 2014

Marseille, France

Our first long distance journey by train took us to this port location once known in antiquity as Massilia. It is the oldest and second largest city in France founded around 600 BC. Rising up from the metro in the heartbeat of the city, the Vieux Port, you discern at first blush, that this city has an ethnic diversity unlike other places we have discovered. It is no wonder that it was named the Cultural Capital of Europe.

And with this new status, Marseille unveiled its newest museum in 2013; Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilization (MUCEM). It is a fascinating exhibition and its location could not be more appropriate, contrasting and combining the ultra modern MUCEM with the centuries old Saint Jean Fort at the harbor gateway to the city.

Marseille, France - MUCEM and Saint Jean Fort 
Our initial walk along the port to our hotel, I noticed men carrying sail bags over their shoulders and conversing with one another. It struck me that anyone, on any day of the year, at this very port, could have observed the same event, for the past two millennia.

The daily Fish Market where restaurants and residences source their fish is something not to be missed. Usual and unusual creatures from the depths can be seen and bought. Several fishmongers take efforts to keep their smaller catch alive insuring their freshness. And a visit to Marseille would not be complete without ordering bouillabaisse, which is made from the morning's catch. Many restaurants require you to order this fish soup 24 hours in advance.

Marseille fish market
Marseille fish market - tuna
One of the oldest parts of the city, the Panier, consists of winding, narrow streets where artisan and second-hand shops are the perfect place to purchase something unique. You'll see clothes-lines strung from windows and stray cats lazily wondering here and there. The purveyors were friendly here and it was one of my favorite parts of Marseille. The Panier is also where we found the Fish Spa. For fifteen to thirty minutes you can place your feet into a tank of very small fish. We were told that this type of treatment can be found in Turkey, Greece, and Spain, but it is unique to France. These fish supposedly eat the dead skin from your feet. At first it was a little creepy, but after a bit, it was relaxing. It is something that you have to try for yourself. I have to admit that my feet did not feel much different after these small fry feasted on my feet. I think George enjoyed it much more than myself.
At the Fish Spa
The Panier
The Panier
The Panier
Marseille was once world renown for its soap making industry. In the heyday of this industry, the
"Savon de Marseille" was used for just about anything - washing dishes and clothes, shampoo, and domestic cleaning. But consumers began to enjoy perfumed soaps and the once high demand for Marseille soap has declined over the decades. To be a true "Savon de Marseille" the soap must contain 72% oil and production must follow traditional methods of fabrication. So to get "the real Mccoy" may take some questioning and a little research. And you just might need it to get the fish saliva off your feet after the fish spa.

Savon de Marseille
One of the highlights of our trip to Marseille, wasn't even in the city. The Calanques are a 12 mile stretch of high, sheer cliffs rising up from the turquoise blue Mediterranean waters between Marseille and Cassis. These small, sometimes narrow inlets, where, intermittently, you will find an out-of-this-world beach, are spectacular. We took the bus and hiked into one of France's newest National Parks, and had a memorable picnic by the sea. It will be difficult to match this scene anytime soon.

Calanques
Calanques
Just off the coast of the city of Marseille are the islands of If and Frioul. We jumped on a ferry and visited Frioul for about an hour. There is a rather large marina there and people also live on the island. We were told that you'll find several nice beaches on the island and hiking trails to explore, but we did not partake. It is always good to be out on the water and the ferry also provided excellent views of the city.

Island of Frioul
Island of If and Chateua d'If - The fictional historical
setting for the literary work, Count of Monte Cristo
On the Island of Frioul
Last, but not least, looming over the Marseille landscape is the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde. It is difficult to miss this church high above and it offers fantastic views of the city and the sea. Built in the 19th century, it is ornamented with colored marble and mosaic flooring. Inside the church you can't help but notice the melding of the importance of the fishing industry and that of the church community. 
Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde
Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde
Here are more photos at this link:


1 comment:

  1. That is really a nice story about Marseille! Even the weather did seem to be "untypical" in some of your pictures the charm of the city comes across very well. As you do, I like the fish market at the old port quite a bit. It is like a farmers market, just with fishermen and women. Here is my account on this place: http://askan.biz/2014/09/29/fish-market-marseille-france/

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