Maltese Islands

The Maltese Islands are comprised of Malta, Gozo, Comino, and the tiniest of rocks, Cominotto, all are situated between Sicily and the African continent. They are a dry desert group of islands with cactus, lizards running to and fro and lots and lots of sandstone. Dill weed is truly a weed here, growing everywhere.

The remains of British rule are evident as they drive on the left, much to our surprise, but we should have known. The language of Malta is a mix of Italian and Arabic we were told. But English is widely spoken, we did not experience any language barriers.

Mostly rocky shorelines, but a few small sandy beaches can be found if you look hard enough. Steps away from our hotel was St. George's bay but it was mostly crowded and we wanted to spread our wings so we never went to this beach.

St. George's Bay, Malta

Valletta, the capital was founded in 1565 and is built in a grid style, I think unusual for cities of that time. It is a surrounded by a fortification and has shallow steps for sidewalks in the steep areas of the city. Views of the harbor can be seen from many vantage points within the walls. At night it is surprisingly quiet. You can find great shopping and many excellent restaurants in Valletta. Water taxis are available to take you to other parts of the city.

Valletta, Malta

St. John's Co-Cathedral was a must see in Valletta most importantly for the two Caravaggio painting (The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist and Saint Jerome Writing) that are on display within the church. If you would like to learn about Caravaggio follow this link.

The floors within the church are a patchwork of decorative marble tombs. I've been to many churches since living in France, but I've never seen so many tombs like these, they were a work of art, but of course so is the church.

Valletta, Malta - St. John's Co-Cathedral

Valletta, Malta - St. John's Co-Cathedral decorative tombs

We also visited the National War Museum that highlights the events in Maltese history during WWII. Many people built "homes" within the rocks during the war for safety from bombs.

We found by chance, a cute little restaurant called Angelica. Food critics for Jamie Oliver were present, taking pictures of food and the restaurant proprietor. The back of George's head might be in one of the photos, who knows. If you are ever in Valletta, you must have a bite to eat at Angelica restaurant, you won't be disappointed. Our bill at the end almost topped the lunch in Burgundy region two years ago, but we have yet to hit that mark. It is embarrassing to tell you how much we spent on lunch. You know you're in trouble when there are no prices posted on the menu.

Valletta, Malta

The island of Malta is a busy, car congested fast moving place. Even though our timeshare was located close to a mall, two cinemas and many bars, we felt extremely isolated once you stepped through the doors of the complex. We had a rooftop pool with wait service and all the other amenities you can imagine. When a local recommended that we visit, Mdina, often referred to as the Silent City, we were ready to get out of town. And yes it was very quiet there. With a population of only 241 and a walled city too, people almost whispered on the streets. There were several excellent restaurants within the city and we enjoyed it there so much, we returned several nights for dinner since it was a short 25 minute drive from our timeshare. 

Mdina, Malta

Mdina, Malta

We weren't initially going to rent a car but as it turned out it was the best way to get around even though it seemed the public buses go to even the most remote locations on the islands, and the islands are small. We like to go at our own pace and we saw people waiting for the buses in the dust and sun, it didn't look desirable. The locals also recommended going to the Dingli Cliffs and this turned out to be another excellent site to see.

Dingli Cliffs, Malta

The ancient fishing village of Marsaxlokk was a relaxed city in Malta. The brightly colored fishing boats paint the harbor with their colors of blue, yellow, red and green. Many having a pair of eyes adorned on the bow of the boat, an ancient myth still used today for protection against evil. It was a perfect place to have a fresh seafood lunch by the water.

Marsaxlokk, Malta 

Marsaxlokk, Malta

And just over the hill from Marsaxlokk is a nice, quiet out of the way cove to dive or swim named St Pete's Pool. If it would have been warmer that day, I can guarantee you we would have taken a swim. We think there must be lots of places like this on the islands, but finding them is the problem. We traveled on dirt roads many times to find places similar to this.

St. Pete's Pool

As mentioned Malta seemed to be a busy island, and by mid-week we were ready to explore Gozo the next smaller island to the north. Gozo is laid back, no one is going anywhere fast. We took the ferry and the car to Gozo to see the Azur Window and other sites. It is a popular diving area, in fact diving is very popular around all the islands.

Azure Window, Gozo 

We were able to hire a boat to travel though a short cave and come out in back of the Window pictured above. The sea appears calm in this picture, but our boat was small. By the time we exited the other side of the cave, there were relatively large waves with white caps for the small boat we were in. But the captain said not to worry.

Cave near the Azure Window, Gozo

Near theAzure Window, Gozo

The northern most part of Gozo is a remote area with little habitation. A few small towns can be found here and there, but mostly farming is what we saw. And here also is salt farming, something that I have never seen before. We had to stop and see for ourselves. The three toothed farmer came over and was easy to talk to. Have I mentioned the people of Malta are extremely friendly, they are.

North coast of Gozo, Malta - salt pans

Anyway the farmer explained to us how they harvest salt. He told us it takes 1 week to harvest the salt that has dried in the pans. Sea water is pumped to a larger holding pond, then placed in the pans. In this video you can see them sweep the salt and then scoop it into the bucket, whew, that seems like hard work when you realize the guy harvested 20 tons last year, no kidding. He then takes it to a facility where it is cleaned and packaged. He was expecting a storm the day they were harvesting. He told us if dust blows over from the Sahara Desert the salt is ruined. Even salt farming is weather dependent.

As we were returning to the southern part of Gozo to catch the ferry back to Malta we realized visibility had decreased. But what was causing all this. We seemed to have noticed a haze earlier in the day at the Azure Window on the western coast of Gozo, but didn't think anything of it. Thought is was just a hazy day. As it turns out this is dust that is blowing from Libya. I am amazed to learn this. By the time we made it back to Malta the skies were clear. We were told this usually happens in April, but this year the dust storms have carried into the month of May.

Gozo, Malta - dust storm

Another ferry ride to Comino Island sans the car, as it is a pedestrian only island, there are no roads, only rocky trails running across the island. There is a hotel there, but we did not see it up close. The Blue Lagoon is the main attraction on Comino and what we thought was going to be a quiet visit, was not. Our tour book said that June to September were the busy times of the year. I would not like to see it during those months. It was crazy crowded mid-week in May. Big ferries pulled up to the island dumping people off - all cramming to gain a inch of the tiny beach area in front of the Lagoon.

Comino Island, Malta - Blue Lagoon

We did not find this set up appealing even though the water was very appealing, so we searched for another spot near the beautiful blue water. Next cove over we found hundreds of jellyfish, I have never seen so many in one place.

Comino Island, Malta - hundreds of jellyfish

We eventually found our place in the sun and relaxed, swam, and snorkeled the afternoon away. The water was cold, but after the initial shock it wasn't so bad.

Comino Island, Malta - George snorkling

It was a fabulous week in Malta with sunny skies everyday. We would return again if given the chance, there is still much to explore and experience. It is expensive to fly there even from Paris.

Check out more photos at this link

http://flic.kr/ps/285kjt